Facials6 min readUpdated
Benefits of Dermaplaning: What It Does, What It Doesn’t, and Who Should Skip It
What dermaplaning really does for your skin, the truth about hair growing back thicker, who should skip it, how often to have it and how it fits into a facial at our Carlsbad studio.
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Dermaplaning uses a fine, sterile blade to remove dead skin cells and peach fuzz, so skin looks smoother and brighter straight away, makeup goes on more evenly and skincare works better. There is no downtime, results last about 3 to 4 weeks and hair does not grow back thicker. It is not for active acne, rosacea, sunburn or recent isotretinoin use.
- Dermaplaning is manual exfoliation with a sterile blade that removes dead skin and vellus hair (peach fuzz).
- Skin looks smoother and brighter straight away, with no downtime.
- Hair does not grow back thicker or darker; that is a myth.
- It does not treat acne scars, wrinkles or dark spots, though skin can look a little smoother for a few weeks.
- Skip it during active acne, rosacea or eczema flares, after sunburn, or within 6 months of isotretinoin.
- Every 3 to 4 weeks is ideal for most people.
On this page 10 sections
- What is dermaplaning?
- The benefits of dermaplaning
- Does hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?
- Who should skip dermaplaning
- What to expect, before and after
- How often should you get dermaplaning?
- Professional dermaplaning vs at-home razors
- Dermaplaning vs other exfoliating treatments
- Dermaplaning at Glow Theory
- Frequently asked questions
Dermaplaning is one of the simplest ways to make skin look instantly smoother and brighter. A trained esthetician uses a fine, sterile blade to gently remove the top layer of dead skin cells and the soft “peach fuzz” hair on the face. There are no needles and no downtime, and most people see the difference before they leave the room.
It is also one of the most misunderstood treatments online. It does not make hair grow back thicker, and it will not erase acne scars or wrinkles. This guide covers what dermaplaning really does, who it suits, who should skip it and how it fits into a facial at our Carlsbad studio.
What is dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is manual exfoliation. After cleansing, your esthetician holds the skin taut and glides a sterile surgical blade across it at a low angle, in short, light strokes. The blade lifts away the build-up of dead cells on the surface along with vellus hair, the fine, light hair most of us have on our cheeks, jaw and forehead. It avoids the eyelids, eyebrows and lips.
It sounds intense, but it feels like a gentle scraping and is not painful. At Glow Theory it is added to a facial, so your skin is cleansed and prepared first, then treated with serums and a mask that can work on freshly exfoliated skin.
The benefits of dermaplaning
What it does
Real, visible benefits
- Smoother skinRemoves rough, dull dead cells from the surface
- Brighter lookFresh skin reflects light better, so it looks more radiant
- No peach fuzzFine facial hair is gone for a few weeks
- Flawless makeupFoundation goes on smoother, with less caking
- Better skincareSerums can reach fresh skin more easily
What it will not do
Common myths
- Thicker hairHair does not grow back thicker or darker
- Acne scarsIt can soften the look of very shallow texture, not remove scars
- WrinklesLines look a little softer for a while, but the wrinkle is not treated
- Dark spotsExfoliation can help tone slightly; real pigment needs peels or lasers
- Permanent hair removalHair grows back; laser hair removal reduces it long term
Does hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?
No. This is the question we hear most. Cutting a hair at the surface does not change the follicle under the skin, so it cannot change the hair’s thickness, color or how fast it grows. Regrowing hair can feel slightly blunt for a few days because it has a cut tip rather than a tapered one, which is where the myth comes from, but it softens as it grows. If unwanted facial hair is the main concern, laser hair removal reduces it long term.
Who should skip dermaplaning
Dermaplaning suits most skin types, including dry, dull and mature skin, and it is a gentle option during pregnancy when some peels and lasers are not. But it is not for everyone. Skip it, or wait, if you have:
- Active acne or a breakoutThe blade can spread bacteria and irritate inflamed spots. Treat the acne first; an acne treatment plan or HydraFacial is gentler.
- Rosacea, eczema or psoriasis on the faceExfoliation can trigger a flare. A calming facial suits better.
- Sunburn or broken skinWait until it has fully healed.
- Isotretinoin (Accutane) in the last 6 monthsSkin is too fragile; wait at least 6 months after your last dose.
- Strong retinoids or exfoliating acidsPause them for a few days before your appointment.
What to expect, before and after
Before
- Stop retinol, tretinoin and exfoliating acids about 3 to 5 days beforehand
- Avoid waxing, threading or sunburn on the face in the week before
- Tell us about any skin conditions or medicines, especially isotretinoin
After
- Your skin may look a little pink for a few hours, and occasionally feel tight or tingly for a day or two
- Use a gentle cleanser and moisturizer for 2 to 3 days, and hold off on retinoids and acids
- Wear SPF 30 or higher every day; freshly exfoliated skin burns more easily
- Makeup can go on the next day
How often should you get dermaplaning?
Every 3 to 4 weeks is ideal for most people. That matches how quickly the skin renews its surface and how quickly the fine hair grows back. More often than that can over-exfoliate and irritate the skin.
Professional dermaplaning vs at-home razors
At-home dermaplaning tools are mainly small facial razors. They remove peach fuzz, but they do not exfoliate as evenly as a professional blade, and nicks, irritation and breakouts are more common, especially on uneven or acne-prone skin. In the clinic, a trained esthetician uses a sterile surgical blade at the right angle and pressure, avoids sensitive areas and pairs the treatment with products chosen for your skin.
Dermaplaning vs other exfoliating treatments
| Treatment | Best for |
|---|---|
| Dermaplaning | Dull, dry skin and peach fuzz; instantly smoother skin and makeup |
| HydraFacial | Clogged pores, oily or acne-prone skin; deep cleanse with hydration |
| DiamondGlow | Texture and dullness; diamond-tip exfoliation with serum infusion |
| Chemical peels | Dark spots, uneven tone, acne marks and fine lines |
See our guide to hydradermabrasion vs microdermabrasion for more on how these compare, and what happens in a professional facial.
Dermaplaning at Glow Theory
We offer dermaplaning as an add-on to our Signature Facial, which is $175 ($149 for Glow Getter VIP members). It is performed by our licensed estheticians, including Bailey Daynes, a master esthetician who specializes in advanced exfoliation and dermaplaning. Not sure which facial suits your skin? Book a facial at our studio on El Camino Real and we will tailor it to you.
Frequently asked questions
What are the benefits of dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning removes dead skin cells and fine peach fuzz, so skin looks smoother and brighter straight away, makeup goes on more evenly and skincare products reach fresh skin more easily. There is no downtime.
Does hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?
No. Dermaplaning cuts the hair at the surface and does not change the follicle, so hair does not grow back thicker, darker or faster. Regrowth can feel slightly blunt for a few days before it softens.
Is dermaplaning good for your skin?
For most people, yes. It is a gentle exfoliation that suits dry, dull and mature skin. It is not suitable during active acne, rosacea or eczema flares, after sunburn, or within 6 months of taking isotretinoin.
How often should you get dermaplaning?
Every 3 to 4 weeks is ideal for most people. More often can over-exfoliate and irritate the skin.
How long do dermaplaning results last?
The smooth, fuzz-free result usually lasts about 3 to 4 weeks, as the skin renews its surface and fine hair grows back.
Can dermaplaning remove acne scars?
No. It can make very shallow texture look a little smoother, but it does not treat acne scars. Microneedling, lasers or subcision treat scars.
Is dermaplaning safe if I have acne?
Not during an active breakout, because the blade can spread bacteria and irritate inflamed spots. Get the acne under control first, or choose a gentler treatment such as a HydraFacial.
How much does dermaplaning cost?
At Glow Theory, dermaplaning is an add-on to our Signature Facial, which is $175. Nationally, dermaplaning typically costs about $100 to $300.
Sources
Bailey Daynes
Bailey Daynes is a Master Esthetician with 6 years of experience in advanced aesthetics, specializing in advanced exfoliation, dermaplaning and customized treatment plans.
